Returning an Item:

Canceling a Hot Tub / Spa order:

Most spa manufacturers utilize independent service people who work on any brand of spa. Ours do this as well.

The factories that manufacture our hot tubs are connected with a combination of local and national service technicians. Should you require warranty service, you will receive the benefits of factory original parts installed by a technician in your area.

Although our spas are designed and constructed to far exceed their warranty, it is a primary goal of our company to ensure that you receive prompt quality service during your warranty period and beyond.

The location of your new spa.

DO NOT place your spa within 10 feet of overhead power lines.
Allow for service access. Make sure the spa is positioned for access to the equipment compartment (under the LED touchpad).
Consider the view. Determine the view and landscape you will want to enjoy while using your spa. Also consider the view of neighbors and other privacy concerns.
A path leading to your spa which is free of dirt, fallen leaves, and grasses, will help ease the maintenance of your spa water.

The foundation of your new spa.

Consider the surface and pad requirements of your spa. When filled with water and people, your spa could weigh approximately 3,000 to 4,000 pounds.
The foundation must be a uniformly firm, continuous, and level setting. The recommended foundation is a concrete pad with a minimum thickness of four (4) inches with steel reinforced cross bars throughout. As an alternative to concrete, you may want to order our convenient Spa Pad.
When installing your spa on a wood deck or balcony, the same load requirements must be met. Total load may be as much as 90 pounds per square foot.
Consider that the surface will likely come into contact with water and care for slippery conditions should be considered.

The delivery of your new spa.

Consider the delivery route needed. A standard delivery will need to navigate fence gates, trees and shrubs, steep inclines, existing pools, dog houses, and overhead wires.
Plan a delivery route to the location which provides ease of access for the dimensions of your spa, which will generally be tipped on its side, and needing clearance of:

Free-Spirit and Laguna Series....................On Shipping Pallet = 85" L x 37" W x 87" H (700 lbs)
Avalon Series..................................................On Shipping Pallet = 79" L x 30" W x 72" H (800 lbs)
BellaGrande Series.......................................On Shipping Pallet = 94" L x 37" W x 99" H (490 lbs)

Failure to consider these important factors may result in special circumstances not covered in a standard delivery.

Click for Details about Hot Tub Spa Shipping

The electrical requirements of your spa.

Notice: When installed, the electrical wiring of the spa must meet all applicable state and local codes. The electrical circuit must be installed by an electrical contractor, and is typically not included in the standard delivery.
Our spas require an electrical supply of 240 VAC, 50 Amps, 60Hz. (40 Amps for 1 pump models).
All 240V hot tubs must be hard wired to a GFCI power supply. Failure to follow the electrical requirements will void both the manufacturer's warranty and independent testing certification listing.
To reduce the risk of electrical shock, the bonding terminal connector should be bonded with a No. 6 AWG solid copper wire to any metal ladder, water pipes, or other metal within 5 feet (1.5m) of the spa to comply with local requirements.
All 110V hot tubs must be either hard wired to a GFCI power supply, or have an appropriate outdoor cord with a built-in GFCI.

General Considerations for Indoor Installations.

In addition to special consideration for the delivery route of door height and width, stairs, and other indoor obstacles, the installation of your spa indoors requires a few extra planning considerations.
It may be well worth the investment to speak with a licensed contractor to make sure all local building codes are met, and the installation can occur safely, and that load requirements can be met.
Plan for a floor drain or some other method of draining the water from your hot tub.
The floor and wall surfaces will be subject to constant high-humidity levels, and as such should be evaluated for appropriateness. Also consider a ventilation exhaust fan to help control the high humidity levels created by your spa.

General Considerations for a spa cover.

Keeping an insulating cover in place anytime the hot tub is not in use will reduce the time required for heating, thereby minimizing operating costs.
A properly placed cover also has the added benefit of being an obstacle, deterring children from entering the spa unsupervised.

General Considerations for Safety.

Three general safety concerns exist with any body of water: drowning, electrical shock, hyperthermia. Following the operating guidelines of your owner's manual, and advice from your dealer and local contractor, will help ensure many long years of safe enjoyment.

Installation Guidelines

1) Spa requires 18" minimum clearance around all sides of the spa to avoid the potential of additional service charges.

2) Spa must be located on a structurally sound, level surface. Level surface is defined as a surface whose pitch is less than 1/4" over 4'. Consult a qualified building contractor or structural engineer before you place the spa on an elevated deck or an indoor location. If shimming is required, it is the customer's responsibility to support the entire footwell area as well as the entire perimeter of the spa cabinet. Spas improperly/not supported will warp and void your warranty.

3) Floor load capacity must be a minimum of 100 lbs. per square foot and must meet your local building codes.

4) In most cities and counties, permits are required for the installation of electrical circuits or the construction of exterior surfaces.

5) Spa can not be installed on asphalt.

6) Spa can not be placed directly on a gravel or lawn surface.

7) White Glove Delivery crew is not equipped to level and/or repair spa sites.

8) Spas placed on slate, brick or paver, laid in dead sand or stone dust must be checked regularly to ensure that the spa remains level. Periodic adjustments are usually necessary, which would require that the spa be drained and removed from the surface. The surface must be leveled before the spa can be put back. Failure to maintain a level surface will cause your shell and/or cabinet to warp, voiding your warranty.

9) When placing spas on pressure-treated landscape timbers, the entire perimeter as well as the footwell must be completely supported. This method of installation must be checked for movement and/or settling and corrections to the level of the spa and the surface it rests on must be made.

10) Spas installed indoors must be placed on a non-porous surface with a floor drain. Do not put the spa on a carpet. Water will accumulate around the spa, so flooring materials must provide a good grip when wet. Water damage caused by indoor or outdoor spas is not covered under any Spa warranty.

11) All spas installed indoors must have an adequate method of ventilation. Humidity will naturally increase with the spa installed. Water may get into woodwork and produce dry rot, mildew or other problems. Good ventilation is also required to prevent airborne bacteria. An architect can help to determine the proper amount of ventilation required.

12) Customer understands a Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI) MUST be installed by a licensed electrician prior to the electrical hook up of the spa.

13) Price of spa does not include electrical upgrades or any electrical work of any kind, including required (GFCI) breakers. All electrical work must be performed by a licensed electrician.

The relaxing benefits of a warm water soak depend on spa care. By following the recommended guidelines (from your local dealer) for treating spa water, you should enjoy years of relaxation benefits without worry about bacteria or disease.

Using the lock down straps on your cover will help to prevent unauthorized visitors for using your spa. Our covers actually have a key lock that you can use for increased safety. Some areas require this by code.

You could also consider changing to a thick strong Super-R Value spa cover for additional protection for children and animals.

Question: How often should I test my spa water?

Answer: Spa water should be tested weekly to ensure that the pH, Alkalinity and Sanitizer levels are adequate. It is also good practice to shock the spa water weekly and add Clarifier, De-Foamer and a De-Scaler.

Question: How often should I clean my spa’s filter?

Answer: A clean filter is a key ingredient to maintaining sparkling, clear water, so you should clean your spa's filter monthly with a Cartridge Clean following label directions. You should soak your filter overnight, deep cleaning with a Filter Cleaner every three to six months or whenever you drain the spa.

Question: My cartridge filter is dirty, and I was told to just put it in my dishwasher to clean it. Is this the best way?

Answer: The dishwasher will clean out the larger debris, but can also damage the fabric on the filter. The best way to clean your filter is to use a filter cleaner that contains both acids and detergents and is designed specifically for cartridge cleaning. This will ensure that all oils, lotions and minerals will be removed from the filter. Cleaning properly increases the longevity of the cartridge. Check your cartridge filter once a month. Try Leisure Time FILTER CLEAN.

Question: Why do I need to drain the water in my spa every three months?

Answer: Although maintaining a proper chemical balance and sanitizer level will keep your spa water clean and clear, it is important to remember that a spa is a small body of water. So, continual use means bathers will deposit large amounts of dirt, perspiration, body oils, deodorant, make-up and other contaminants into a relatively small volume of water. If your spa is used heavily (approximately two people, three times a week, a half hour at a time) we recommend that you change your water every 90 days. If the spa is used less frequently, changing the water every 120 days should be adequate. Naturally, if a serious water quality problem arises, you'll want to change the water immediately.

Question: What else should I do when I drain the spa?

Answer: Clean the surface with an approved cleaner and wipe it dry. Inspect the jets to ensure that they are operating properly. Remove and calcium buildup with CLR or vinegar.

Question: How often should I clean my spa’s cover?

Answer: Depending on use, plan to clean your spa's cover once a month. Pay particular attention to the waterside of the cover. A frequent cleaning of your cover will protect it and keep it smelling fresh.

Question: Sometimes I notice a musty odor coming from my spa. How do I prevent this?

Answer: First, clean your spas cover (both sides) thoroughly. Ensure that your spa area has proper ventilation if it's indoors. Second, check to see when you last drained your spa. Spas with water older than 60-90 days should be drained and refilled.

Question: Should I treat my spa water the same way as I treat my pool water?

Answer: Although the pH and total alkalinity measurements are the same, the sanitizer level (chlorine) should be kept between 3-5 ppm. In a spa, the filter requires more frequent cleanings. In addition, the water will require more frequent care to assure pH and sanitizer levels are correct.

Question: My dealer tells me not to use soft water (low calcium level) in my spa. Why is the calcium level important to my water's balance?

Answer: Too little calcium in the water can cause corrosion, particularly in heaters and other metal components. To increase the hardness to the recommended level of 150-400 ppm, add a calcium hardness increaser such as Leisure Time CALCIUM BOOSTER. Too much calcium can cause scaling on the walls and heating elements or cloudy water. To prevent calcium in the water from causing these problems, add a sequestering agent such as Leisure Time SPA DEFENDER.

Question: My spa has an ozonator. I have heard that I should not use a clarifier in my spa. Why?

Answer: Ozone is a highly reactive oxidizing agent. Some people are under the impression that ozone will destroy clarifiers and make them ineffective. We have found, however, that ozone does not affect the effectiveness of clarifiers. Clarifiers do provide a very real benefit in ozonated spas by helping the filter keep the water clean.

Question: My spa has odd-shaped white chips on the bottom after I shut it off! Where's this stuff coming from?

Answer: The white chips are calcium deposits (scale which forms on the heater elements) which are knocked off when the blowers and jets are on. This problem can be prevented by using a sequestering agent, such as Leisure Time SPA DEFENDER, on a weekly basis to prevent calcium in the water from forming deposits.

Question: My spa is foaming. Why?

Answer: There are several reasons that a spa foams. A common cause is the rapidly moving water combined with bathers bringing in soaps and detergents on their bodies and bathing suits. Showering before entering the spa helps prevent this problem. If excess detergents are the cause of the foam, using a defoamer such as a Leisure Time FOAM DOWN. Another cause of foaming is soft water. This means that the calcium level in the water is low. This can be corrected by raising the calcium level to 150-400 ppm. Organic waste build up can also cause foaming. By shocking the spa on a regular basis, the wastes are oxidized out of the water and foaming is reduced.

Question: How often do I really need to shock my spa water?

Answer: How often you shock spa water depends on the sanitizer used and the bather load. If you are using chlorine, it is recommended that you shock at least one time per week. It may be necessary to shock more often if the bather load is heavy or the water is cloudy.

Question: I have an ozonator on my hot tub. Do I need to use a sanitizer with it?

Answer: Yes. Even though ozone is an effective oxidizer and will even destroy microorganisms directly exposed to the ozone, the ozone is relatively short lived in your hot tub water. As such the ozone is not present in the water for a sufficient length of time to assure adequate sanitation of the entire tub and the surfaces and plumbing. The use of an ozonator will reduce your consumption of chlorine or bromine as it makes it easier to maintain proper levels of these in the water it does not eliminate their usefulness.

Hint: to keep your water fresh, add a capful of chlorine after you use the hot tub and cycle the pumps on, before you cover it. That way, the chlorine will work on killing any bacteria you have left behind from your spa session.

Quick Version of Chemistry Setup - 2 Pump Models (all items are contained in the Startup Chemical Kit): 1. As you are filling the tub with water, put in entire bottle of Metal Gone in the water (this product is CRITICAL each time you do a fresh fill of your spa).

2. Run spa pumps 10 minutes to mix water (getting a good mix is very important so that when you test your water, the results will be accurate).

3. Use a test strip to check Alkalinity and PH.

4. Turn pumps on high so you have maximum agitation.

5. If your PH is high, add a Capful of PH Down...if it is low, add a capful of PH Up

6. Let pumps run until they timeout (20 minutes)

7. Dip another test strip to check PH

8. If PH is still high, use another capful of PH down (run pumps 20 minutes again to get a full mix in the water).

9. If PH is good, but alkalinity low, about 1/2 capful of PH Up should fix this.

10. If PH and Alkalinity are good, move onto the following steps:

Then Add:

• 2 Oz of Defender
• 2 Oz of Bright and Clear
• 1 Oz of Enzyme
• 1 measuring cup (the cup in the kit) full of chlorine

Let pumps run a full 20 minutes again.Check that the Chlorine level is between 2 and 4 ppm. If low, add more, if high, it will slowly get used up, don't worry about this.

Quick Version of Chemistry Setup - 1 Pump Models (all items are contained in the Startup Chemical Kit):

1. As you are filling the tub with water, put in entire bottle of Metal Gone in the water (this product is CRITICAL each time you do a fresh fill of your spa).

2. Run spa pump 10 minutes to mix water (getting a good mix is very important so that when you test your water, the results will be accurate).

3. Use a test strip to check Alkalinity and PH.

4. Turn pump on high so you have maximum agitation.

5. If your PH is high, add a Capful of PH Down...if it is low, add a capful of PH Up

6. Let pump run until it times out (20 minutes)

7. Dip another test strip to check PH

8. If PH is still high, use another capful of PH down (run pump 20 minutes again to get a full mix in the water).

9. If PH is good, but alkalinity low, about 1/2 capful of PH Up should fix this.

10. If PH and Alkalinity are good, move onto the following steps:

Then Add:

• 2 Oz of Defender
• 2 Oz of Bright and Clear
• 1 Oz of Enzyme
• 1 measuring cup (the cup in the kit) full of chlorine

Let pump run a full 20 minutes again.Check that the Chlorine level is between 2 and 4 ppm. If low, add more, if high, it will slowly get used up, don't worry about this.

To minimize the need for chlorine or other sanitizer, we also highly recommend the Spa Mineral Stick. Just float it in the skimmer and one stick lasts about 3 months. With a combination of the Ozone Generator we put on every spa, and the Spa Mineral Stick, you will be able to minimize the amount of chlorine you need.

We typically recommend chlorine for its effectivness and low cost to use, but you are welcome to use any alternative sanitizer you prefer, for example bromine.

There are two ways of testing your spa water. The first way is to take a sample of spa water to a dealer and have them check the water. The dealer will recommend a chemical program that will correct the problem that you are having as well as suggest an ongoing maintenance program. The dealer will also be able to supply chemicals that will fit you needs.

The second way to test your spa water is by using chemical test strips. If you are using Chlorine as a primary sanitizer, you need to use a test strip that is suited for chlorine. If you are using Bromine as a sanitizer, you need to use a Bromine test strip. Chemical test strips will measure the pH, Alkalinity, Calcium hardness and chlorine level of spa water.

The proper way to use a test strip is as follows:

Turn on all of the spas pumps to activate the jets and agitate the water. This will ensure that you get the most accurate reading. Immerse a new test strip in the water and swirl it around for about three seconds. Remove the strip from the water and compare the colors on the test strip to the colors on the label of the container that the test strips are stored in. Record the readings on a piece of paper.

It is important to deal with each of the different areas of a test strip individually. You need to correct the water chemistry before you add any sanitizers, as poor water chemistry will reduce the effectiveness of the sanitizer. Add hot tub - spa chemicals in small amounts (1 tablespoon) at a time and make sure that all of the pumps are turned on while adding chemicals. Wait 15 minutes before you re-test the water to make sure that the chemicals have had proper time to react with the spa water. The initial “balancing” of the spa water takes time and patience, but if done properly, will provide clean safe water and protect your spa from damage.

The first step is to correct a hardness problem if there is one. The calcium hardness should be between 250 ppm and 400 ppm. Too soft of water will foam and cause corrosion of the equipment and water that is too hard will cause mineral buildup on the heater element. The typical problem is that the water is too soft and requires the addition of a calcium booster to raise the hardness of the water. If the water is too hard, use a metal sequestering agent to reduce the mineral content of the water.

The next step is to adjust the pH and Alkalinity. The two are related and use the same chemicals to adjust. Make the first adjustment using the alkalinity reading. If the Alkalinity is too high, use a pH down product to lower the level and if it is too low, use a pH up product to raise the level. It may take a lot of chemical to cause a change in alkalinity, but be patient and add chemical in low doses. If you overshoot, it will take a lot of the opposite chemical to correct the situation. When the alkalinity is in range, it is time to correct the pH readings. Use a Spa Up (raises pH) or Spa Down (lowers pH) to adjust the pH to the optimum reading of between 7.0 and 7.8. Be aware that the alkalinity will also change when you try to adjust the pH, this is normal and you will be able to get both pH and Alkalinity in acceptable range.

Now you can add a sanitizer. We recommend Sodium Di-Chlor (chlorine) as it is a powerful shock and sanitizer that will not affect pH and will use the least amount of chemical. If the water is cloudy or smells. You should add enough chlorine to “shock” the water, which means bringing the level to around 10 ppm. DO NOT USE THE SPA WHEN THE CHLORINE LEVEL IS THIS HIGH. Shocking the water will ensure that all bacteria and organic compounds are destroyed. Leave all of the pumps on and the cover off to help dissipate the excess levels of chlorine. Normal chlorine ranges for usage are between 3 ppm and 5 ppm chlorine. If you have too much, you need to wait until the levels drop before you use the spa. Check the water again in 20 minutes to see if the levels are sustained. If the water had high levels of organics or bacteria, the chlorine will be used up quickly and you need to add more before using the spa. If you are able to maintain at least 2 ppm to 3 ppm of chlorine after 20 minutes, it is safe to use the spa.

There are other chemicals such as de-foamers and clarifiers that will help you keep the spa water clear. I would suggest that you purchase a Hot Tub - Spa Chemical Starter Kit that contains all of the chemicals that are necessary to maintain high quality spa water as well as an instructional DVD to help you better understand spa chemicals and how to use them. This kit is good for about 1 month, so you may also want a Hot Tub - Spa Maintenance Chemical Kit. We assembled this kit to take you through about six months of regular hot tub use.

Changing Your Premium Hot Tub filters is Quick and Easy.

1. Slide the Filter Cover up and off

2. Slide out the Debris Tray

3. Unscrew the old filter(s) Avalon models have a single filters, all other models have dual filters.

Watch the video to see how quick and easy it is to maintain your filters.

In general, with our hot tubs, we say the annual average will be one dollar per day.

In March of 2010, a customer from the Lake Placid, NY area, with one of our Free Spirit models wrote "...the spa's been great! The chemicals have been easy. It's costing us about $35 / month in electricity during our cold winter. We drained it, cleaned it and refilled it once last summer, with no problems. Very nice product! Thanks again."

This is consistent with how much electricity our hot tubs typically use. But, the answer to this question may include many variables, such as:

1. size of the hot tub
2. type of insulation inside the cabinet
3. thickness of insulation inside the cabinet (the R-Value of the insulation)
4. thickness and density of the foam cover for the hot tub
5. type of climate (Florida customers and Toronto customers, with the same hot tub, will not have the same electric bill in the winter months)
6. how often you open/use the hot tub (4 times per week in the winter, for an hour at a time, will cost more than 2 times per week for a half hour per session in the summer).
7. the cost for electricity in your area.

Please note: by no means are all hot tubs insulated the same, or have the same quality of insulating cover. We have read and heard true horror stories where poorly insulated hot tubs were costing over $200.00/month to run in the winter. They looked pretty, and the price may have seemed cheap, but there were reasons.

To properly clean an Aristech acrylic-surfaced product, it is recommended wiping the surface with a soft damp cloth (or sponge) using household soap or liquid detergent. Stubborn dirt or stains may be removed by using Spic & Span adequately dissolved in water.

DO NOT use any cleaning products containing abrasives or solvents since these could dull the brilliant surface. Products like Bon-Ami, Comet, Ajax, or Lysol are not recommended. Harsh chemicals should never be used on acrylic surfaces. The procedure to remove a light surface scratch or burnish mark is quite simple. Apply paste wax or automobile rubbing compound to the scratch and then mildly buff the area.

This will return the original luster and shine to the marred acrylic surface. Should a deep scratch or more serious damage be encountered, please consult the product manufacturer or Aristech Acrylics Technical Service Department for repair instructions.

Aristech acrylic's long lasting beauty, when properly maintained, will prevail indefinitely. Mildew should never be a worry because acrylic is nonporous. Acrylic surfaced products are made from a single sheet of material; this results in no grout to scrub, no corners to collect dirt, and no seams to clean. The bottom line is, very little time will be needed to maintain an Aristech acrylic surfaced product.

This glossary of spa related terms is designed to help our clients who are new to the world of hot tubs.

Air Control or Venturi: Mounted on the lip of the spa or at the equipment shroud, to induce air to the jets.

Cabinet: The redwood or driftwood panels that surrounds the spa, also called a skirt.

Control Panel: Mounted on the lip of the spa. The digital panel that controls the spas functions.

Control Box: Basically the brain of the spa. Power is distributed to all functions of the spa, pumps, ozonator, heater, fiber optics, etc. Also called a Spa Pack.

Drain: The fitting located inside the cabinet that drains water from the spa.

Filter: The filter cleans the spa and removes particles and debris and protects the equipment from foreign substances.

G.F.C.I.: Breaker The electronic switch installed in the power box of your house to give power to the spa. This is a non-user serviceable part.

Gate Valves: T-handled valves located at the inlets and outlets of the equipment. The gate valve blocks or opens the water line by the equipment.

Heater: The thermostatically controlled heater raises the temperature of the water to the desired degree. This is located under the control box in the equipment area.

Hose Bib: Used in the draining of the spa, fits a standard garden hose.

Jets: The fittings on your spa that direct the flow of water for massaging action. Ozone A water purification supplement method using Ozone Gas.

Ozone: gas, made by an Ozone Generator unit, can reduce your sanitizer needs by up to 25%.

Corona Discharge The Corona Discharge Ozonator reduces the amount of chemicals needed to keep water clean and crystal clear.

Ozone, a pH-neutral oxygen compound, is created when a molecule of oxygen passes between a high voltage electrode and a stainless steel grounded electrode. creating an “energy field of electrons” This field instantly converts oxygen molecules into ozone, which is dispersed throughout the water destroying algae and bacteria. With less contamination in the water, less chemicals are required to keep the water clean. This saves you both time and money.

The Corona Discharge ozone generator also saves energy, compared to the standard ultraviolet ozone generator. Corona Discharge technology produces twice the concentration of ozone while consuming less than one-tenth the electricity.

pH: Stands for “Potential for Hydrogen” This is the term used to describe the acid (low pH) or Alkalinity (high pH) condition of the water. The ideal pH for spa water is 7.5

Plumbing Union: the threaded collar that connects a water line to a component such as a pump or heater.

Skimmer/Filter Housing: This is the square opening with the floating gate at the water level. The skimmer removes surface debris to the filter. The water level in the spa should be kept at 2” above the skimmer for optimum operation.

Reprinted with permission from Aristech Acrylics LLC.  Original article can be found here .

"More Truth About Microban® and Anti-Microbial Agents in Acrylic Sheet" 

Microban® is a pesticide that an acrylic sheet producer has added to its product for bath and hot tub surfaces. The company is insinuating and implying health and cleaning benefits that haven’t been proven. In fact, new scientific evidence indicates that there is no difference between untreated acrylic sheet and acrylic sheet made with Microban in killing or inhibiting the growth of bacteria on the respective surfaces.

What is Microban?

Microban is a registered pesticide made by the Microban Products Company of Huntersville, N.C. Its primary ingredient is a chemical called triclosan, which, in its liquid form, has been used as a disinfectant in hospitals for over 25 years. In 1980, three biochemical engineers invented a process to imbed the pesticide into the structure of plastics. This became the technology upon which Microban would be based, and in 1990, the Microban Products Company was formed. Since that time, Microban additives have been incorporated into a variety of consumer and commercial products.

Does Microban kill or slow the growth of bacteria when used in acrylic sheet?

No. A study was conducted by SGS U. S. Testing Company Inc., an independent laboratory in Fairfield, N. J. Completed in January of 2000, the tests indicate that there is no difference between untreated acrylic sheet and acrylic sheet made with Microban in killing or slowing the growth of bacteria on the respective surfaces.

How was the new study conducted?

Samples of manufactured bathtubs that contain both the untreated and treated acrylic sheets were purchased from retail establishments and cut into samples. Each sample was exposed to strains of bacteria, including Escherichia coli (E. coli), Staphylococcus aureus (S. aureus), and Streptococcus faecalis (S. faecalis). The acrylic samples sat for periods of 0, 4 and 24 hours. The bacteria were then removed from the acrylic surfaces and measured and counted according to standard protocol.

What are the results of the study?

Specifically, SGS U. S. Testing Company concluded that the samples of untreated and treated acrylic sheets “did not show any anti-microbial activity (0% bacterial reduction) at 4 or 24 hours against” E. coli, S. aureus, and S. faecalis.

Is a bath or hot tub made with Microban “healthier?”

Absolutely not. In fact, manufacturers of Microban-treated acrylic sheet are not allowed by law to even imply that they are. The United States Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) will not allow Microban Products Company, or any of its customers, to make claims regarding health benefits, such as protection from germs or disease prevention. Why? Because there is no specific evidence that any of the products treated with Microban are effective in preventing the spread of bacteria or disease.

Do hot tubs and baths treated with Microban need to be cleaned?

Absolutely. Materials with Microban still need normal and frequent cleaning and disinfecting. Microban does not protect against hard water film buildup or stains, or soap scum residue. Also, the presence of Microban does not reduce the need or amount of sanitizers needed in a hot tub’s water.

In fact, a hot tub or bath treated with Microban needs exactly the same level of maintenance and cleaning as one that is not treated with Microban.

Does Microban make acrylic easier to clean, last longer, or look newer longer?

There is no published evidence that shows Microban makes acrylic sheet easier to clean, last longer, or look newer longer.

Why? Because acrylic sheet is already one of the most durable, long-lasting, and beautiful materials used in the hot tub and bath markets.

What benefit does Microban add to acrylic hot tubs and baths?

Strictly speaking, acrylic sheet treated with Microban offers customers and consumers no benefits that are not inherently part of the acrylic material. There is no proof that anti-microbial agents incorporated into acrylic sheet products provide any health benefits whatsoever. And now, there is specific scientific evidence that indeed Microban does not provide any antibacterial benefit when used in acrylic sheet.

What do expert scientists say about adding Microban to consumer goods?

Several noted microbiologists have said that adding Microban to many consumer goods is unnecessary, and some have even called it a “marketing gimmick.”

Not only have experts said that the benefits of Microban are questionable, but many are also concerned that the wide-spread use of these substances may cause a major public health problem. Researchers are concerned that repeated use of products containing triclosan could be breeding resistant bacteria, or “superbugs.” A 1998 Tufts University study showed that over-exposure created five different triclosan-resistant strains of E. coli. According to Tufts’ Dr. Stuart Levy, “If the idea is to sterilize surfaces, it is misguided. You can’t sterilize surfaces that are open to the air. You will not eliminate bacteria, but rather replace them with other micro-organisms which could be potentially harmful.”

The truth is...Continuous cast acrylic has served as the premier surface for millions of hot tubs and baths sold in North America over the past 20 years. Acrylic has a proven track record of retaining its beauty and high-gloss shine through years of everyday use. Acrylic is extremely hard and non-porous by nature. So, dirt, soapy film, and germs can’t easily penetrate. Untreated, it is the material of choice for quality baths and hot tubs.

For any questions or a copy of "More Truth About Microban® and Anti-Microbial Agents in Acrylic Sheet", call Aristech Acrylics LLC at 1-800-354-9858.

Microban is a registered trademark of  Microban Products Company.

There are various factors that will impact this, including how warm the air around your hot tub is. In general, for every degree you want to heat up the water, you should plan on 30 minutes of heating time.

Hints for faster heating are:

• Air bubbles "Off,"
• Waterfall and any other water features "Off"
• Cover "On."

It is better to keep the tub hot, even when you are not using it, unless you won't be using it for an extended period of time. You may think you will save a lot of energy if you let it cool down, but you will spend hours heating it again, eating up those potential savings of letting the water cool down.

It is best to keep the hot tub within a couple of degrees of the temperature you like to use it at.

Sure! Many people not only use their tub in the winter, but find that winter is their favorite time to get their hot water hydrotherapy. However, if you choose not to use your tub in the winter, please contact your authorized dealer to "drain and winterize" your tub so it can be ready to go again, when you are, in the spring!

Additional note from the engineer regarding our hot tubs: Our spas are designed to use year round and will have no problems being efficient in the northern climates. Our heat loss from the spa itself is so low, we were able to pass the ETL Test for acceptable cabinet temperatures without venting. Any heat that is created in the cabinet is not vented off, but kept inside the cabinet year round.

Hot tubs come in all shapes and sizes, so the amount of water will vary. As people get into the spa, water is displaced and the level rises. The general recommendation is that there be enough water to cover the jets and the filter intake area, but not so much water that movement results in an overflow.

See our specific model description pages for the water capacity of our hot tubs.

Jets, located throughout a spa, deliver water into the spa in different volumes and motions (hydrotherapy), which provide the body with a massaging action. Many jets are interchangeable and often adjustable so the spa bather can customize his/her soak.

Air injectors, however, are generally located in the seat areas and, when activated, create a turbulent bubbling or boiling action. The main drawbacks to air injectors is the noise of the blower, the cooling effect the large air volume will have on the water and the limited massaging action the air bubbles actually provide.

Fortunately, no. Properly maintained, many people change the water in their hot tub every three to six months, depending on variables like the number of bathers, frequency of use, type of sanitizing system, and so on.

Keep your water maintained and keep an eye on your filters from time-to-time, in case they are getting dirty and need cleaning or replacing.

Things to look for and consider to determine the level of quality and value include:

• A Minimum 25 oz. Weight Marine Grade Vinyl
• Matching Material Reinforced Handles & Straps
• Breathable Underlining Material
• A Heavy Duty Moisture Barrier, Preferably Heat Sealed Instead of Taped
• Compliance to the ASTM Safety Standard